Rosewater Campout

I’m back in the Real World, land of technology, television, refrigerators, stoves, electricity. We camped out at Rosewater for 9 days straight with minor errands into town for fire permits or for a ‘tater from the Tater Shack.  Otherwise, we were internet and phone free for the stay. After day three, I didn’t really miss these conveniences.

I spent my time chopping wood for the fire to boil creek water for drinking. We partially rebuilt the chicken coop, started a garden, removed brambles, improved the campsite, cooked on cast iron over a fire, and fought off tenacious legions of ticks. We weren’t exactly roughing it; we had many modern camping tools, but it gave us a good perspective of what to expect out at Rosewater full time. Middle Tennessee entered Spring while we were out there and therefore tornado season is starting up. One of our projects is constructing a subterranean tornado shelter near the huts we plan to build (We also surveyed good trees to fell for these huts).

I placed my tent near the creek itself and enjoyed the crackle of the water all night. People buy sound machines that make a similar din, but I found myself fortunate to have the real thing. I would wake up in the morning, usually with a tick crawling around on my person, burn the tick with my lighter, and watch all the bugs meander around under the rainfly but over the tent mesh. I would just lay there and recount my dreams (which were vivid out there; dreams within dreams at times), throw my boots on, grab a kettle of water out of the creek for coffee, and resurrect the fire. A epiphany I had during these chores was that since we can have things we want so easily without waiting for them (for instance, start the fire to boil the water to have coffee and warm breakfast) we easily forget how wonderful life is because we simply don’t have the time to think about life itself. We think so often about how to be more efficient without realizing that downtime may be necessary to simply stop and think about our situation.

Another idea chain I had was that camping was fun. I wondered why I enjoyed camping so much. My conclusion came while doing these sometimes exhausting chores. Everything I’m doing, from felling a tree to chopping wood to having a fire, is hard work that benefits myself. The profit is mine and my friends. In the Real World, hard works’ profit tends to go to someone else who no longer does any hard work. Managers in suits and ties (I interpret nice clothes in the workplace to mean you aren’t there for hard work) tell you what to do, and reap the profit while giving you a dividend. Now to be clear, I’m not knocking this system in the fullest sense. I’m simply realizing that I would rather have the full fruit of my labor instead of having a small dividend to share with someone else. Employers and Employees should be partners; equals striving to prosper together and sharing the profit equally. Instead, the system is rigidly geared in a hierarchy. Managers that don’t do any real work make more profit. Why is that? Didn’t the Employee stock that shelf and check out the customer? Isn’t that the crux of retail? What exactly did the Manager do? Make the schedule? What is more valuable? Paper pushing or pallet pulling?

The weather was either warm and sunny or dark and rainy. Thunderstorms graced us a few times. Rain flooded our tents once or twice. But it wasn’t uncomfortable. I’m now at the farmhouse six miles away, clean, but feeling slightly uneasy. The washing machine is going. An electric buzz is coming from the walls. I don’t really expect you, the reader, to understand this feeling unless you remove yourself from indoors for a long time period.

One day at Rosewater, we decided not to work very hard and be leisurely. We floated around in the chilly creek on the warm sunny day with beers and a flask of whiskey. Scott read on a tree that over hung the water. Court paddled around in a tube while Oshinn and I manned the raft we found in the basement of the farmhouse. We saw a fairly large bass, several snakes, giant spiders (or octopuses to some), and crawdads meandering below us in the shallows. The water was so clear; the trees were so green. It was subtle and serene and beautiful.

A neighbor came by and introduced himself. His name is Justin; he is 28. He grew up down the street and after a few stints in other places is back home. He came by twice; the second time he ambled right out of the wooded hills just before our ‘hobo stew’ was done. He seemed to be in conflict with society as we all are and only at peace away from it. At one point, he asked us if we were going to vote for Obama; We all said no. He said, pararphrasing, “Oh good. That nigger didn’t do any good, and he just helps his nigger friends. It would have been different if actually did something good“. This is clearly a racist statement, but I found it remarkable that he was willing to acknowledge that Obama could have done something beneficial. I wonder if Justin would have said differently if Obama wasn’t so disappointing. Anyhow, I wanted to share this encounter, controversial as it may be. Traveling is important because one meets people with different ideas. I do not agree with Justin’s word use, but boiled down his ideas aren’t all that extreme. This blog is not about politics; it is about traveling and people. Inevitably though, Politics will find its way in here, to give the full portrait of a man we met here in the woods of Tennessee.

North Carolina and Tennessee

We decided to stay two nights in Asheville, North Carolina. We both had heard a lot about this town and wanted to spend a full day there walking around. Oshinn brought her guitar downtown, and most of the day was spent walking around the town or sitting around busking, with Sunny at our feet.

The City of Asheville is interesting, architecturally and socially. Art Deco rules the streets here; many of these buildings were seemingly built in the 1920′s in better times. Busking is fully allowed and even encouraged here, giving the town a beautiful sound at all hours of the day. The buskers themselves have their own rule system, that seems to guarantee that all buskers share the good and bad spots.

Buskers in Asheville

We stayed in a Days Inn in Asheville that boasted ‘Southern style breakfast and supper.’ Breakfast turned out to be delicous Biscuits and Gravy. Supper was lackluster, but still tasty beef stew.

We drove on to meet Court near Nashville in Dickson. The car stalled for a third time in Knoxville, in the midst of a storm brewing. We just missed tornados in Cookeville, after we got the car going again.

Since being in the ‘Holler’ near Dickson, we have been working on Rosewater; Court’s off the grid farm project on 73 acres. So far, we have rebuilt the chicken coop, tore down the remaining chimney from the house (the house burned down several years ago), I chopped down a 2 foot diameter dead tree with an axe, and most importantly, we built an outhouse for the camp out. Photos and details to come!

Virginia

Sorry it has been awhile since I posted. We are currently near Dickson, Tennessee, staying with Court. There is no internet and only a phantom trace of cell service in the Holler, which is a bit refreshing. Go to town for the necessities; see whats happening on the internet.

We pulled into Charlottesville and caught Normajean and the Blue Moon Diner just before she took a Megabus to Philadelphia. Otherwise, the stay in C’ville was relaxed, hanging with Denise and eating dinner, seemingly all of the time.

We left on Sunday with the notion to see Chincoteague Island, where the wild horses roam. The island is high up on the Virginian Peninsula which only accessible by the Chesapeake Bay Tunnel/Bridge, or by going all the way around through Maryland. We decided on the bridge/tunnel, in spite of the 12 dollar toll. It was worth it. The weather was beautiful and sunny. The bridge portion is just above the water and it graces you with the feeling that you are driving upon the surf. Here’s a shot from Fisherman’s Island, which the  route goes over:

We arrived at Chincoteague Island later in the afternoon. We couldn’t go into the Reserve itself, because a rule denied entry to dogs, even in the car. We found out that the Mcdonalds on the island has a few Chincoteague ponies penned up, so we went there. A little disappointing, but I was still entertained.

A Chincoteague Pony (at Mcdonalds)

We drove back down over (and under) the bridge/tunnel back into the Norfolk area. We ended up staying in Williamsburg at an extremely cheap Motel 6. The next morning we decided to head to Jamestown, the first permanent British settlement in North America. On the way out, we saw Williamsburg. The town is a restored collection of Precolonial and  Colonial buildings, with The College of William and Mary stuffed in between. The idea is to see a town that escaped time, with actors portraying life in the 17th century. Instead, what you get is a cute but lame amusement park, that doesn’t really show anything relevant outside of the buildings themselves. Boo. On to Jamestown.

Jamestown was staked out on a marshy island in the James River. The townsite was thought lost to the eroding effects of the river until someone actually dug there and found over 2 million artifacts, foundations to buildings, and graves. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the money to go in. So we drove around the Island’s little road, seeing the pretty reclaimed nature. We walked to Black Point, the Island’s easternmost point, and it was gorgeous. The wind whistled through the trees. The sun shined into the murky water and sparkled. It was easy to imagine being a settler and feeling these inputs.

Black Point, Jamestown

We drove on to another part of the island that had an estate from the settlement times. The Planter’s graves were still there, but the house was accidentally burned down in the 1800′s while celebrating Jamestown. An older couple was having a picnic on one of the graves. They were very friendly and convinced us to spend the money and see the townsite. We were not disappointed.

The National Park Service rebuilt the church and the palisades on the old foundations, which is idiotic, but what-are-you-going-to-do? They also put statues of John Smith and Pocahontas. We explored the town and museum, housing the artifacts. It was an amazin place, over all. Part of the town was indeed lost to erosion, but the majority is stellar.

Graves at Jamestown

After all of this excitement, we drove into North Carolina to see Asheville. I will save this leg for a later town incursion. Right now, Dickson is the place to be for awhile.

From Vermont to Virginia.

Burlington was lovely once again thanks to my friends Katharine and Matt. Here is a pretty photo of Lake Champlain at sunset.

We started heading south. Before we left Vermont, we went by my old favored Quechee Gorge. One of my visits here a few years ago instilled memories of snow piled high on the sides of the bridge. This winter has been so mild. No snow was accumulated at all outside of the gorge.

Quechee Gorge, Vermont

We left with the notion to check out Walden Pond near Concord, Massachusetts. This is where Henry David Thoreau built his hut and escaped from the everyday rigors of civilization. Once we arrived, there were signs everywhere forbidding parking. The only place to park wanted 5 dollars and they closed in 20 minutes. Oshinn idled in the car while I literally ran by the pond to the site of Thoreau’s hut.

The Thoreau Hut Site

On the way to the hut, the ice was washing gently ashore, making a natural wind chime sound that was amazing. The water was crystal clear and had a clean taste to it.

Ice sprinkling the shore of Walden Pond

We drove through Worcester, Massachusetts and got some food. On the way out, the car stalled. It turned but would not start back up. I went up the street and got a gas can full of gasoline. I poured most of it in the tank but the car still wouldn’t start. I pulled the air filter off and primed the carburetor. The car started right up. Fuel isn’t getting into the carb for whatever reason. We ended up spending the night in Connecticut in a spartan motel off the highway.

In the morning we cruised for awhile into Pennsylvania. I realized that we were just 15 minutes away from Centralia, Pennsylvania. This town has been mostly abandoned and razed due to an underground coal fire that has been burning for 40 years now with no sign of stopping. It destroyed a stretch of the highway and created deadly gases and sinkholes in the vicinity of the town. Here is a photo of the once busy downtown area:

Centralia, PA

The sun is hazy due to the smoke from the fire. The neighborhood streets are still plotted out but the houses are gone. The sidewalks are fragmenting and trees are slowly reclaiming the area.

The Nova and Centralia

We drove on and the car stalled again in Hershey, Pennsylvania. Once we got it going again, we slept in a Walmart parking lot and went to the chocolate factory in the morning. The ride is free; why the hell not?

We drove through Gettysburg and did a quick tour of the battlefield. The weather was very misty and visibility was low.

Gettysburg

As we drove into Virginia and the south, there were high winds and the clouds made a spectacular and dramatic split across the sky. We were told on the radio of a Tornado Watch in effect. We saw no tornadoes, but beautiful views as we came into Charlottesville.

 

Continental, Ohio. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

Just a few photos for your vicarious living pleasure:

Continental High School; my Father's school

Old hardware store, Continental 'Main Street'

This photo is a good example of what we have been seeing on ‘Main Street, USA.’ Old dilapidated buildings in need of repair; local businesses such as this hardware shop replaced by franchises, or abandoned entirely.

Sunny bewildered by a Amish horse and buggy

A beautiful lake in Ohio

A back alley in Pittsburgh, with Oshinn

Heinz Factory, Pittsburgh

A street in Downtown Pittsburgh

The oldest confirmed building in Pittsburgh; a redoubt of Fort Pitt in Point Park

Pittsburgh cityscape

 

 

Bianchi’s Pizza and Starved Rock, Illinois

Starved Rock is an unusual speck of terrain in the otherwise flat plains of Illinois. The legend exclaims that a group of Ottawa and Potawatomi Indians, in revenge for the killing of their Chief Pontiac under a Parley, surrounded and eventually forced the Illini Indians to starve to death on the summit of this small hill.

The park is a wintering ground for Bald Eagles and hawks. The northern border of the park is the Illinois River.

Here are a few photos showing the strange and beautiful canyons and bluffs that make up the State Park:

Auxiliary (frozen) waterfall in French Canyon

French Canyon, with Marc and Oshinn

Frozen waterfall, French Canyon

French Canyon frozen waterfall

Oshinn and Marc in French Canyon

Creek

Nearby Starved Rock is a town called Ottawa, containing “World Famous” pizza restaurant Bianchi’s. As traveling pizza connoisseurs, we accepted the challenge. We walked in and were greeted with a very dark environment, deliciously antique. This place serves pizza and drinks. Nothing else, literally. Cash only. We ordered an extra large pepperoni and while we waited we noticed that the restaurant was quickly filling up, right after opening at 4:30pm. About 15 minutes later, we were greeted with a thin crust golden pizza that was fantastic. It wasn’t so greasy and the cheese was just right. Check it out sometime.

Bianchi's 'World Famous' Pizza

We are continuing on tomorrow morning. We will be boondocking in free campgrounds and driving on roads less traveled. Stay tuned.

 

Custer’s Last Stand and Deadwood, South Dakota.

Rubbertrampers

Rubbertrampers

We left Kalispell on Monday morning. We have no solid set destination and no appointments. We are quite literally free to do what we please.

The first night we stayed with Oshinn’s sister and her family in their beautiful house in Helena, Montana’s capital.

On the way out of Montana, we went to Little Big Horn National Monument. This collection of bluffs is where Colonel George Armstrong Custer met his end after he misjudged the fighting power of Chief Sitting Bull’s Native Coalition. Gravestones are placed where 7th Cavalrymen fell, and more recently specially designed gravestones designating where the Native Warriors fell. We made it to the park with a half hour to spare and quickly saw the major landmarks.

Last Stand Hill and the 1988 Nova

Last Stand Hill at Little Big Horn

Our target was a campground next to Lake De Smet, Wyoming. The campground is free in the off season. The forecast was a 10 degree low in the area, without windchill. To put it mildly, it was cold. I got a fire going and we boiled water for ramen noodles under a full moon. The moonlight illuminated the frozen lake below. Ice fishermen were on the lake doing their thing. We slept in the car in a bundle of blankets. In the morning we awoke to overcast and grey. But that was just the thick frost on the windows. Upon opening the car door we were welcomed into the morning by fog and overcast sky. Here is a nightshot of Lake De Smet:

Lake De Smet, Wyoming, 10 second exposure

We cruised right into South Dakotas and the Black Hills. Deadwood is about 10 miles off of the highway. The old Boomtown was a rowdy rough and tumble Wild West town, most famously known for the final resting place for Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane. The town itself is kitschy and a tourist trap. We went up to Mount Moriah Cemetery and checked out the famous graves.

Wild Bill and the 'Dead Man's Hand'

Wild Bill's Death Chair

Wild Bill's Grave (Calamity Jane is buried next to him.)

The next stop is Wall, South Dakota and the famous “Wall Drug” in the heart of the Badlands. Originally a failing pharmacy, Wall Drug became a highway must-stop when the proprietor started offering free ice water. We got buffalo burgers, apple pie, a donut, and several 5 cent coffees. It was a nice break from the road.

Wall Drug, South Dakota and Oshinn

We were looking for another free campground in Ainsworth, Nebraska but it was closed for the winter. We ended up driving another 70 miles to O’neill and staying at a Mom and Pops Motel called Carriage House. It was beautifully simple. A real key opened the door. The owners live on the property and their dogs welcomed us into the lobby as they opened up just to let us a room for the night.

We drove straight through Iowa, commenting on the changes of geography that the Plains States represent. We are now in Elburn, Illinois, a far west suburb of Chicago, staying with Marc and his grandmother. This post represents a week worth of driving the back roads of middle America. A great trip continues to get better.

 

 

Greyhound advert from sometime in the early/mid 1950′s (Thanks Court)

The only thing inaccurate about this old poster are the number of States in the Union. You are cheating yourself out of a real trip if you hop on a plane for a domestic flight.

“A journey is a person itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.” -Travels With Charley (John Steinbeck)

 

John Muir

I have been reading Peter Jenkin’s A Walk Across America, conducted in 1973/1974. While he is passing through a town called Murphy, North Carolina, the local Sheriff interviews him and then personally welcomes him. The Sheriff told him about a man named John Muir, who passed through the town 100 years prior in his own walk across America without any real supplies to speak of. This personal welcome happened after Jenkins was forced out of the last town, Robbinsville, North Carolina, by people who threatened to lynch him.

This fascinated me, so I did a bit of research. First off, he had a sweet beard. See picture:

John Muir, around 1872 (Wikipedia)

He wrote a book about his walk across America, with a focus on Botany. He planned to continue his sojourn to South America, but he contracted Malaria and decided to change his plans.

His new lifestyle involved being a mountain man in Yosemite Valley, which was unprotected then. He advocated for federal preservation of the Valley and in the meantime created a little group called the Sierra Club. Here is a picture of him hanging out with Theodore Roosevelt in Yosemite:

John Muir hanging with President Roosevelt (Wikipedia)

I’m growing more interested in a walking trip. There’s a lot to this, I understand, but wouldn’t that be an awesome adventure? I’ve done a little bit of research on the Appalachian Trail. Anyone else interested?

Also, here is a link to a online e-book for A Thousand-Mile Walk to the Gulf, John Muir’s book of his walk.

Oshinn and I are probably hitting the road as rubber trampers (noun: A person who travels and lives out of their vehicle (normally an RV, van, bus, etc.). They stop and stay wherever they choose for however long they want, but eventually, so as long as there’s a way to put gas in their tank, move on. (Urban Dictionary)) in the first week of February.

 

A pile of photos from the past few days in Montana.

I made it to Kalispell. I’m staying with Oshinn, her sister, and her Mother. I have already fixed the bathroom doorknob. The plan is to wait for our tax returns and to hop in the 1988 Nova east. In the meantime, we have been eating pizza, watching Charlie Chaplin, and enjoying the winter weather!

Pit stop on the I-90

Pit stop on the I-90

Saint Ignatius Mission

Saint Ignatius Mission

Trees in the sunlight at St. Ignatius

Trees from St. Ignatius

The Jewish snowman

Erin sledding

Oshinn sledding